Rid Molds of Jig Collar

[Bucho]

Hi,

I´m frequentliy wasting far too much time on cutting of Jig collars. Hate to tie on them, hardly ever need them at all. Is there an easy way to modify the mold, s.a. putting in a spacer or something?

Edit: Sorry, should have posted in "lead pouring"

 

[hookup]

I use a spinnerbait band (those really thick small rubber bands used to attach spinnerbait skirts) and drop it into the mold. After 2-3 pours you find the exact place where the band should be put because it expands and causes an indentation in the head.

 

[crappiecripplerjigs]

I've fought with this myself. Just recently used a blue high temp silicone gasket sealer. Can't recall the name but it's in a grey tube like toothpaste. Worked perfectly. Place in both sides of mold where the collar is and clean up excess with a toothpick or cotton swab. Once it starts to set (not long) add the hook and close for a couple hours. Then you're ready to go.

 

[CrappieHappy]

you can also use JB-weld. what i did was pour 8 jigs in the mold, numbered them, cut off the collars. I then placed them back in the mold, made some refernce marks with a sharpie, mixed some jb weld, and used toothpicks to apply the jb weld to the mold, after setting up for a bit, i put the jig in and formed/removed excess jb weld. I duplicated this for the other side... been going strong for about 5-600 pours thus far....

 

[Bucho]

I´m a bit intimidated by that JB-weld stuff, but that reminds me of the high temperature silicone rubber I once bought to make custom molds. Gonna try the exact same thing with that,:icon14: should be easier to remove in case something goes wrong or if I need the collar again.

 

[Hawnjigs]

Never tried JB - how do you remove the excess ?

 

[CrappieHappy]

Never tried JB - how do you remove the excess ?

Keith , Initially i formed the jb with a toothpick , after it was setup enough to firm up but not harden all the way. I used an old gift card/c.c. to skim the surface of any excess after inserting the jig to form the back of the jighead/collar, and the hook shank.

 

[yakfish]

If you JB Kwik instead of JB weld it will be easier to remove if you decide you don't want it in the future. It isn't quit as strong as JB weld and won't adhere to the mold quite as tightly. It will stay there as long as you want it but if you do decide to remove it, it will be easier to do so than JB Weld.

 

[toadfrog]

Use silicone ,you can get it out without damage to the mold . Once you have it in the mold you can do both sides at once by tapping talc powder over the silicone just like powder painting . Put the heads back in the mold close until dry then open the mold .Both sides should come free from one another because of the talc .There will be thin flash silicone around the cavity of the mold where the excess came out . Peel it up cut it off with an exacto knife . This is the only silicone you will need to remove .

 

[Bo_G]

Love this site!

 

[Hawnjigs]

Yah, you guys rock - thanks !

 

[CrappieHappy]

This is how my modification looks..

 

[toadfrog]

Neat job . You must have taken your time with that . There is one other thing you can use too . Muffler patch paste from the automotive store . Cheaper even than JB weld but I think it is the same stuff .

 

[CrappieHappy]

Thanks Brent!

 

[StumpHunter]

Just got this mold in the mail Friday and the info on this post will help me get the job done in no time. Thanks guys.

 

[CrappieHappy]

Just got this mold in the mail Friday and the info on this post will help me get the job done in no time. Thanks guys.

Np Ronnie, let us know the outcome .

 

[StumpHunter]

Got my mold filled in and poured 500 jigs today in it. Worked like it should. I do have a little lead running down the hook shank but just a little and they should clean up easy. Thanks Heath for the info and instructions. Here are 150 of the ones poured today. I just filled in three sizes.

 

[CrappieHappy]

NP Ronnie, if you know which one is leaking,and you want to mess with it. make a pour from the cavity, then trim the excess, and put back
in mold, and you can see where you need to add more JB Weld to either, or both sides.

 

[Shoemoo]

This has got me thinking...

There's a technique used out here for salmon and steelhead called twitching. It uses big jig heads, but I would need a heavier wire hook than the walleye head mold is designed for. I wonder if I could open up the areas at the bottom and around the hook eye and then fill any excess with the silicone (or whatever) to accommodate a heavy wire hook.

Might help me get some use out of the bigger cavities since there are no walleye nearby.

 

[Bucho]

Silicone isn´t perfect. It won´t stick on the mold by itself but rather need some superglue oder high perfomance glue. Also, you can´t just apply and model it since it runs of without a form to hold it in place. I wouldn`t use it for such delicate modifications.

Personly, however, with the variety of hooks I use, I need its flexibiliity. Now that I´ve gathered some experience I am thinking of something more durable though, for instance to fill out the eye-bulbs of my pony head mold.

Anyone who uses JB weld or muffer patch - how hard does that stuff get? Can I carv modifications in it? Does it have some flexibility to accept different hooks?