Pouring Bismuth

[Killerbug]

Just want to start a topic, to replace the one at Tackleunderground. Unfortunately TU is so loosely managed, that it's downtime exceeds the up time, what makes it uninteresting for me.

I pour 95% Bismuth, I have just received the Do it straight football mold. First I was pretty happy to see, that the barb, was of the tapered kind, making it ideal for bismuth.

I started with a light polish of the cavities, using a dremel and some silver polish, then expecting the worst. But the mold is quite easy to use, with just the 3/4, and the 1 OZ cavity sticking badly. But grace to the football shape, they can be released by grasping the head gently with a tool, and pull it loose. Actually I find the footballs esayer to release then the roundheads.

 

[Fatman]

Cadman uses some stuff called mold release from Frankfurt arsenal - you spray it inside the mold cavities and it helps the jigs come out easier. Tried Bismuth but it was a pain, sticking with lead till Vermont changes the rules again!!!!!!

If they change I hope it's grand fathered for all the jigs I already have poured!!!!!!!!!

 

[JUNGLEJIM1]

It's a mold release agent called Drop Out and it works well, a can goes a long way.

 

[Killerbug]

Wonder whats in it?

 

[Hawnjigs]

My FBB-4H-AFM, being a newer black handle mold, was the worst bismuth sticker ever. Took me hours to smooth out the grabby imperfections with hand tools. I mean grinding off, not just polishing.

The FBB-7-A price is tempting, but I'm wondering if I should hold out for an older used one? Were all the smaller castings under 3/4 releasing without any hitches?

 

[Killerbug]

The black handle FBB-7-A i bought, looks identical to those blue handle ones I have seen on Ebay. I did not try the two smallest cavities, but I will give you a feedback later today.

 

[Killerbug]

Just poured some in the two smallest cavities. Both are smooooth,,Just remove them by the hook, and the sprue falls off by itself. The 1 oz is a a little bitchi. I feel it clearly by the force you need opening the mold. But it can be easily removed, but let the metal settle first.

First remove the sprue with a plier.

Where the sprue had been broken off, place the the right jaw of a plier gently, and the left jaw behind the neck of the jighead, where the collar begin. Then you should be able to loosen it it, without major problems. I use the same procedure on the 3/4.

 

[Hawnjigs]

I might try the pliers. I've been knocking out stickers with an awl on the sprue break scar, but that often leaves a hole up front.

For production pouring tho, if the casting can't be demolded by tapping on the sprue the mold needs work.

 

[Killerbug]

True, but I am unsure what dremel tools to use. Dont want to ruin the moms

 

[Fatman]

That would drive me crazy if I was trying to pour a bunch of jigs!!!!!!!

 

[Hawnjigs]

I'm more comfortable cutting thru bolts & nuts with a Dremel than precision metal removal by micrometers. So, I mount various cutter & abrasive bits in a pin vise and CAREFULLY smooth restrictive appearing cavity areas a little at a time manually. Usually takes several grind + test pour sessions to get it right. The most critical area and hardest to get right is the edge of the cavity where it meets the flat mold face.

 

[Killerbug]

That would drive me crazy if I was trying to pour a bunch of jigs!!!!!!!

I actually prefer pouring bismuth. I think it's worth the trouble, and like hacking my way trough all the hurdles, and finally prevail! :jig::beer:

But I must admit, that my first attempts nearly made me cry, stood there with
500$ of metal, and a bunch of broken jigheads in my expensively imported molds. But due to practice, and reading off Hawnjig and Cadmans threads, pouring bismuth is now under control, so I am now able to sell out of my jigs.

shop.esoxhunt.eu

 

[Killerbug]

The most critical area and hardest to get right is the edge of the cavity where it meets the flat mold face.

By hand, yes of course , what makes the cavity edges so differcult??.

I am planning to do those first.

 

[Fatman]

Hawn gave me quite the education on bismuth and bis/tin mix's!!! Depending on what happens here I may have to switch soon!!!!!!!!!

 

[Hawnjigs]

KillerB, I have found my visual & manual skills incapable of retaining the clean flat surface of a casting at the mold join seam. Seems the more metal I remove near the edge, the more I create an unintended raised ridge on the casting at the seam. If you can suggest tools and method to avoid this, that would be a boon to me.

View attachment 8

 

[Killerbug]

KillerB, I have found my visual & manual skills incapable of retaining the clean flat surface of a casting at the mold join seam. Seems the more metal I remove near the edge, the more I create an unintended raised ridge on the casting at the seam. If you can suggest tools and method to avoid this, that would be a boon to me.

I think the nature of bismuth makes this very difficult to obtain with something like a Do it mold. I guess the trick is to keep the tools vertical while abrading the edge?



But if i should suggest a tool, it would look like this, and have the exact diameter of the cavity. Would only work on round heads though.

I am going to the dentist tomorrow, maybe he knows something we don't know.

 

[Hawnjigs]

Nice ball cutter bit, mine are similar. Yes, in theory, try to edge cut flat with the existing surface angle, but in practice, the pic of a Wobble Jig shows what happens despite being careful.

BTW, the Wobble Jig is impossible to pour with bismuth, unless the draft angles are seriously increased.

 

[Killerbug]

I think the seem annoys you, because you know how the lead version looked like. To me it looks perfectly fine, and I am sure fishes agree.

 

[Fatman]

Do you have to do the edges on ANY mold you're pouring bismuth with??? or just pour them??

The wobble head looks good!!

 

[Hawnjigs]

Older Do-its had smoother cavity surfaces and tend to release bismuth alloys without any mod. Some, not all, newer ruffer face Do-its can severely stick bismuth. Larger surface area of bigger castings can compound sticking problems. You never know till you pour.

Owner 2x 1/0 obviously a poor fit into a stock 3/8 Wobble designed for 2/0 light wire. I also don't mind the ridge personally, but some customers might be finicky.