painted some of those first jigs I poured

Fatman

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Look good but if you're going to tie any boolie jigs you'll want to clean the hook shank off. Getting hooked bad!!! HUH!!!!!!!LOL
 

AtticaFish

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Nice paint jobs - that should keep you tying for a little while. ALWAYS love the look of straight up pearl paint. :cool:
 

goodtimesfishing

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Fatman said:
Look good but if you're going to tie any boolie jigs you'll want to clean the hook shank off. Getting hooked bad!!! HUH!!!!!!!LOL

what are boolie jigs? I don't worry about the shank as with my ties it gets covered with thread first thing. But interested in what the boolie jigs are?
 

AtticaFish

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The 'boolie' style was originally posted by JiggerJohn (and Hawnjigs) a while back - uses a spinner prop on the shank just behind the jighead and a bead or cone as a stopper to hold the prop in place. The prop spins fast on these style of jigs, feels like a little buzzer on the end of you line if you are using a sensitive rod.
 

Fatman

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Here's one of the red ones I tied
100_3566.jpg
 

Shoemoo

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Nice job on the paint. Looks like you did an undercoat on some of the colors?

I think the boolie style is a homemade version of the Northland Whistler Jig. They've been around as long as I can remember, since the mid 90s at least. Surprised no one has made an attempt to copy them before now.
 

Fatman

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Are you using powder??? on these?? When I painted with testors paint I'd use a white base coat, but with the powder only use it with transparent or candy colors.
 

Jighead76

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Fatman said:
Look good but if you're going to tie any boolie jigs you'll want to clean the hook shank off. Getting hooked bad!!! HUH!!!!!!!LOL

First off the paint looks nice and clean. Plenty to tie now! Next off I wanted to ask Fatman about the boolie jigs. I got a ton of propellers and wanted to know what size bead you use. I get mine from a craft store. Most my jigs are a #1,2 and 4 hook. And I can only get them on the smallest 1/32 #4 hook after bending the barb. Any suggestions?
 

Pup

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Indeed, those look well-painted. I paint my jig eyelets as well. Have my technique down to where I do not need to drill or punch out any holes. Just paint, rack, and cure.

Good job. :cool:
 

Fatman

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On the size 2's and 4's either fly tying beads or ones I get from Joanne's which are glass and come marked as 6/0 Czech glass beads. I have never had to bend any barbs to get them on and I've even been able to take the fly tying beads off. On the #10 hooks I use the 3/32nd.

The fly tying beads I have are from Orvis and are marked as 3/32 and 5/32nd's. The other fly tying beads I have I got from Jim in a trade, and are 3 and 3.5mm tungsten. I've put them on regular aberdeen and sickles.

The props I take an old pair of scissors and enlarge the hole a bit so I don't have to force them on, with the #10 I don't need to.

JungleJim bought his beads and props from Worth and his beads are the 3/32nds also. Prop blades are 0's and 1's and are Worth.

If you need any more info let me know.
 

goodtimesfishing

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Fatman said:
Are you using powder??? on these?? When I painted with testors paint I'd use a white base coat, but with the powder only use it with transparent or candy colors.

Yes, powder. I do a fast dip in the fluid bed with straight white(harbor freight white)before any other colors. Even the black ones had light coat of white before the black. I pick the ones that have the lightest amount of white(thinnest coat) for the black jigs. I have found that the colors seem to turn out best when there is a base of white.
 

Fatman

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Mine have always come out nice and bright and never thought about doing that. Might try a couple to put up agains what I have painted now. Thanks
 
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