Mold alignment?

Shoemoo

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I have the walleye jig mold with recessed eyes. I haven't tried pouring with it yet, but when I hold it up to the light and look through the mold the hole where the hooks emerge aren't perfectly round. The two edges seem offset by about a millimeter. Is this anything to be concerned about? Did I get a defective mold?
 

toadfrog

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Do-it molds are tested pretty close . Chances are it will not throw flash. Takes about .015 to cause flash in a cavity or down the shank of a hook . Put hooks in and pour it if you want to be sure . Only true way to tell .
 

Shoemoo

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Right now I only have hooks to fit the smallest cavity. My size 4 sickles won't fit the second cavity because gap is just a hair too wide. I don't want to modify the mold until I know it works because it will void the warranty.

If I pour in the smallest cavity and it doesn't flash, is it safe to assume the rest should be OK too?
 

redman

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Stacy most likely you won't have any flash. TF is right and if it is a Do-It they should take care of it. I have a bunch of Do-It's and none of them flash. One time I dropped one on the concrete floor and it still was ok. Test it out but I am betting that you will not have any problems with it at all. They do put out a high quality mold. In fact I would be very surprised if they let a bad mold out their door and would bet good money that you can't buy seconds from them ether.

Redman
 

toadfrog

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redman said:
Stacy most likely you won't have any flash. TF is right and if it is a Do-It they should take care of it. I have a bunch of Do-It's and none of them flash. One time I dropped one on the concrete floor and it still was ok. Test it out but I am betting that you will not have any problems with it at all. They do put out a high quality mold. In fact I would be very surprised if they let a bad mold out their door and would bet good money that you can't buy seconds from them ether.

Redman
You can only get seconds from them if you work for them and then the logo is milled of . I have 3 or 4 heavy heads I got from a guy that is connected to them . Even the seconds were better than almost any of the non - custom made mold . The hook slots were to small for the head so I took one cavity at a time put the hook I wanted in it . Laid the mold between 2 ingots of lead . Whopped the **** out of it with a 4 lb. maul . Not only set the hooks but somehow stopped all flash . Now if that ain't a tough mold I'll eat a day old dead minner and give ya time to draw a crowd . So I'd say pour that baby she's a good'in .

 

redman

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Toad yep being a insider has it's advantages. They are a very tough mold. Got to remember that the company was started by a bunch of guys from the John Deere foundry. That was back in the days when the U. S. A. was still a leader in manufacturing. Don't know if any thing like that could happen today. We don't manufacture much here today so not many companies can spin off the big boys any more. Just dang glad that this one did.

Redman
 

LedHed

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Shoemoo - what size hooks do you need to test all the cavities? I agree with tf & rm - tough molds. I like pouring the older ones.

It's kind of hard to explain but it feels right when you load the mold & close it correctly...
 

Shoemoo

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The mold takes 570/575 hooks and the sizes are:

4/0 x 2
3/0
1/0
1
2

I plan to modify the three largest cavities for heavy wire hooks. Also thinking about how I might modify them to take a wire keeper so I can tie them articulated and have the line to the second hook stay secure. The keepers from Do-It are spendy, but I bet a heavy-duty stainless steel staple would do the job and you can buy them at the hardware store for less than $10 per 1000. Wouldn't work for small heads, but on the 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 heads I bet staples would work just fine.
 
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