Jig weights

[Kdog]

A buddy just dropped off a couple hundred heads for me to PC when I get the time. He said they are 1/32 ounce minnow heads and dont they look neat. Initially I thought they looked big and felt heavy. I laid 5 on my little grain scale 206 grains which works out to 3/32 ounce jig head.

I told him what I found and he said no way. He then compared the jigs to my 1/32 minnow head and agreed they were a bit heavy. I told him not all heads are exact but those missed by a mile.

So the purpose of this post is more of a question. Do you trust the weight stamped on your molds or do you weigh your heads to verify. I have seen many jigs that I know cannot be right but usually keep my mouth shut. I have 2 Do It molds that fall into the category of not being close to the size stamped and say they are actual weight which for the guys I typically fish with and supply jig heads to is very important. Many situations a 1/32 ounce jig is perfect and it you go to a 1/16 you will get snagged almost instantly. I do have a 3/64 oz custom jig that guys like when wind is a bit of a challenge and a 1/16 is still too heavy but a 1/32 wont stay down.

So do you weigh and adjust or go with what is stamped?

 

[Jig Man]

Noticed the same thing with over the counter jigs heads.... I just sort with jigs I know the weight of...

 

[redman]

One of the reasons I have a scale. None the less I pour my own and know the weights of all my jig and I trust my molds some of which I made myself for that very reason and I wanted a balance head.

Redman

 

[LedHed]

Never rally paid attention to the weight accuracy until a LONG time ago when Hawnjigs pointed out, to me, the Do-It 1/32nd difference (closer to 1/48th). I don't know if the weight of the hook is a factor. Not a big deal for bigger jigs - could be something to consider for ultra - lite jigs.
Hilts mold seem to be more accurate than Do-it...
Crazy Angler molds are extremely accurate. Haven't checked the Jacob's molds yet.

 

[Jay Wirth]

I have a similar problem with the Barumba jig that was designed by my father in the 60's and is still one of my most popular products. Originally the jig had collar though some time in the 70s the design was changed a bit with the removal of the collar. Dad never adjusted the size for the description but did stop using oz after the number. So my Barumba Jigs still retain the 1/4, 1/2, & 5/8 description but this is size not actual weight (close but not true). Sometimes a customer will question this and feel the need to complain (usually cuz they read something in a magazine and are now an expert). Bucktail jigs react differently depending on what is tied to the hook, something with a lighter head and sparse tail will sink just as quick as a heavier head with a big gob of hair attached. Each tier adds their own style to the finished product, a 1/4 tied by me will act differently and might be preferred over the same size jig tied by anyone else on this list. A fisherman's technique will also be much different, so these two factors combined, a jig tied by me may be favored by many and not favored by the same amount of fisherman. My thought on fishing - If you are spending time weighing your jigs, your doing it wrong......

 

[Fatman]

Fishing and making tackle is supposed to be relaxing - thinking about actual weights is something I don't worry about, if they catch fish who cares.

 

[Kdog]

Weight comes in to play for our walleye fishing when using jigs tippped with live bait (usually 1/2 or a nightcrawler). Typically a slow drift using wind socks or if lucky nice higher end TM and best speed is .4 - .6mph. Most of the spring season fish are at 12 - 20 FOW and laying in the rocks. Fishing is very intense as you need to be in constant contact (bouncing) with bottom but not staying on the bottom (dredging). Bites are subtle so a sensitive log rod with a soft action is necessary.

Our go to jig is 1/32oz but on dead calm days minimal boating activity no wind draw down flow or water current . a 1/64 or 1/48 are very useful other days slightly heavier are needed. With jig 1/16 and up you will snag very quickly and unless the fish are in a true feeding pattern you will not catch anything except catfish. I have played with a lot of molds to get my assortment but I can cast 1/64, 1/48, 1/32, 3/64, 1/24, 1/16 all with colars and barbs and recently I have started playing with bait keepers in lieu of collars and barbs. Some of us have a finesse style of fishing and have spents lots of money on rods, reels, line and did I mention line, all goes into a complete package, when everything is right, you can feel the bait touch bottombounce up dand drift along and touch bottom again bounce up and drift along you can see your line move due to currents and eddys you can see/feel it it swing around a bigger rock or stump and at those times all your senses kick in as you watch for that subtle change that tells you your bait just dropped into a calm pocket then all motion stops because a fish just picked up the bait time to give some slack, not too much and if you are lucky and your jig not too heavy, a few moments later the fish will bring that bait all the way into its mouth and time to set the hook, too fast and you get your jig back with the crawler cut off right behind the hook.

There is a certain feel that we look for and when you find that sweet spot, fish are easy to detect and catch. The more weight you have, the faster the fish will drop the bait. Too little weight and you cannot keep the bait in the zone. Its a fine line and IMO the worst thing that can happen to you is to fish with someone that has crossed the line and mastered the techniques. Sitting in a boat doing exactly what they are and they catch fish after fish and you never catch a one. Or worse, they tell you a fish picked up your bait and you havent a clue or you hear you just missed that one. It is a very humbling day. If you are unlucky, a finely tuned combo will be placed in your hands and you will try it and suddenly feel all kinds of things going on under the water suddenly everything stops and you know a fish just took your bait and you hear be patient, move your rod back, give some slack, just alittle, a little more, you feel movement and now, sweep your rod to set the hook. Bingo, fish on and finally a fish for the day, and OK, we got our limit. You will get hooked and be prepared to open that wallet.

You know you have mastered the technique when you are catching fish and those around you not, you move to another spot and people follow you. In a way it really ticks me off, but deep down I am somewhat honored (after all, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery). Truth be told, my buddy is the master and I am the student but this year, I am winning the tournament count for the year Me = 298, Buddy =187. Yesterday, I got outfished by 9:3 but its all fun.

 

[Bucho]

With all the collar remmoval, tin adding and imperial friction vs. metric transitioning I never really gave too much on the nominal mold weight to begin with. I consider it a hint at the size of a cavity rather than the actual weight.

 

[AtticaFish]

....consider it a hint at the size of a cavity rather than the actual weight.....

I think of it the same way whenever i order blank heads. It is more a reference than an exact science for me since i am shore bound 90% of the time and simply casting. Add in the fact that i have a bunch of lighterweight leadfree stuff and it all comes down to eyeballing before i tie them on and then seeing how they cast.

1/64 and under means i will most likely need a float to help cast. Some of those really tiny ones get used through the ice straight down below me. Between 1/32 and 1/4 is optimal for casting IMO. Any bigger and i will just be feeding the rocks.

I just got in some 3/8 & 5/8 'Flathead' jigs with visions of spring walleye hair jigging dancing in my head. Dang they are big! Those would be fished from a boat sitting over reef complexes in L.Erie.