Do-it Original Football Jig Molds

Hawnjigs

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I'm thinking of getting the old style Do-it Football Jig combo mold for light wire 90* hooks and was wondering if the collar barbs are the old narrow spikes or the newer tapered triangle type?

The Do-it website email link doesn't work and the Barlows rep didn't know the difference between the two types.

I'd prefer the tapered barb collars since they're EZer to pour and sturdier than the spike barbs.
 

smalljaw

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They have the picture on Barlows website and it seems to be the triangle. The spike I hates it and it was on an old ball head jig mold I had years ago, it held grubs fantastic the only problem was the bait stayed on and if you took the bait off it was junk as the spike really ripped the soft plastic bait up. The triangle barb that has been used for a long time now is really good, it holds the soft plastic bait on pretty good but allows you to take it off in a way that you can use it again.
 

Fatman

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Good info thanks!!! I used to have all the Do-It catalogs way back and they came up missing in one of moves. Worst thing Do-It did is cut the actual photo's of each of the molds. Seeing a black and white photo of the jig just don't cut it!!!
 

Killerbug

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Hawnjigs said:
I'm thinking of getting the old style Do-it Football Jig combo mold for light wire 90* hooks and was wondering if the collar barbs are the old narrow spikes or the newer tapered triangle type?

The Do-it website email link doesn't work and the Barlows rep didn't know the difference between the two types.

I'd prefer the tapered barb collars since they're EZer to pour and sturdier than the spike barbs.

Just received a new black handle Dot it Football mold today from Lurepartsonline(29 $). The barb are the triangle tapered one.
 

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Fatman

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Wonder how hard it is to make the hook slot a bit bigger and put wire bait keepers on them?? I know someone on here moded a mold that way
 

hookup

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Fatman said:
Wonder how hard it is to make the hook slot a bit bigger and put wire bait keepers on them?? I know someone on here moded a mold that way

From the eye of the hook, out 45d, with a carbit bit @ high speed, I dremeled a slot for a wire weed guard. I take 1.75" pieces of .018" stainless steel leader material, put a small hook on one end with a set of wire bending pliers, and lay that into the mold w/ a hook.

If you get overlap on the head, you need to remove more metal. If you don't want to use the weedguard, you just have to knock off a small nipple of lead.

 

Fatman

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I was talking the little wire hook for plastics but moding would most likely be easier for this one
roundheadwkeeper.gif
 

Fatman

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Truthfully I don't know, but the way the chat was going sounded like everyone was worried about tearing up their plastics or them coming loose. Nightprowler moded a few of his molds to incorporate these. I'm gonna have to try a few myself.
 

Hawnjigs

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I don't think my hand is steady enuf to Dremel cut a straight even groove alongside the shank slot. How did Nightprowler do it?

Hookup, did you freehand the Dremel or use a guide to cut your wire slot?

The only no collar football molds available appear to fit only turned eye big bass hooks.
 

smalljaw

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Fatman, I want to know why guys like those wire keepers rather than a collar and barb? The reason I ask is I will often change baits and put a soft plastic that I had been using in my "used bag" which is a bag of baits that were already on a hook. When I used jigs with wire keepers, and I had to try them as everyone was using them, I found I hated them because there was no changing out baits, and it is probably the reason guys go through so many bags of soft plastics as the ones fish on heads with wire keepers are on for good because removeal means the bait is junk. Hawn, you could make the straight cut with a dremel, if you have a ruler or straight edge and a scratch awl it is easy, what I do is place the ruler where I want to make the cut and then hold it in place and then run a scratch awl up and down a few times using the ruler as the guide. Now once you have a nice score you can take say the carbide cutting disk and as you move it will stay in the small groove you made with the awl. I've done it on molds I filled the weedguard slot up with JB Weld and once it was dry I made the groove and then cut for wire weedguards and it was flawless. Another nice thing you can use to help is the flex shaft, it allows you to hold the cutting tool like an over size pen or pencil, that really make cutting easy.
 

JUNGLEJIM1

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Myself, I'm not talented enough and don't have the tools to modify a mold so I just call Zeiner's and order them. Price's are low with excellent customer service. Just got the mold Fm posted a pic of for $33.96 and three other molds. Also asked them abot 1000 count of the Mustad 32833 and asked if they would match the price of Captain Hook's and they not only matched the price but waived the 10% excise that Hook's would have charged. Saved enough on the deals that I just might buy another mold. Hat's off to the guys that can successfully modify their molds to suit their needs, I'm not even going to make an attempt. The purpose of the wire bait keepers is to keep baits on,sounds like they work really well.
 

Fatman

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SJ - like I said don't have a clue never used them. Thanks for the info on the mold mods. Don't know If I'll try it or not but I'm thinking hard!!!!!!!!

Jim - Man you got a deal!!!!!!!!!!
 

hookup

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fatman, my bad. Same technique.

Hookup, did you freehand the Dremel or use a guide to cut your wire slot?

Both. I use a metal ruler to cut the slot of the wire weed guard. For a little wire hook, I'd use the metal ruler to 'hold' the dremel bit in place to widen the hole, the freehand the 'hook' part of the wire hook.

Just modified a swimjig mold last weekend. Use the metal ruler to cut the slot, but freehanded some of the extra aluminum away for hooks to fit. The mold calls for 3/0-5/0 hooks, and I'm useing 1/0 & 2/0. Needed to remove the metal so the point of the hook fit into the mold.

 

hookup

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smalljaw said:
Another nice thing you can use to help is the flex shaft, it allows you to hold the cutting tool like an over size pen or pencil, that really make cutting easy.

I own one of those, but can't get the %*&(&$*% thing to work on my dremel. It came with the dremel. Any tips or tricks?

 

JSC

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"I own one of those, but can't get the %*&(&$*% thing to work on my dremel. It came with the dremel. Any tips or tricks?"
------------------------
I think you have be born knowing how to use some of the Dremel ... I also think I do not have the patiance (SP) ...
If you want Plastic to really stay and not slip the wire keeper is better than the "Spur" .. But .. have found that the "Nipple" type works the best for the simple reason that when you install the plastic "Wire" or Spur" will cut a channel that makes it weaker .. The ""Nipple" will go in even and will cause a suction when in postion..
Course all of this is what works best for you
 

Hawnjigs

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Ruler guide sounds more do-it-able to cut a straight slot than freehanding a cutter disc down a groove. With my less than steady hands, my original straight groove might end up looking like something Zorro would do.

Hookup, the Do-it Swim Jig was once my ace here in HI, but the hooks were too large and rusted too quickly. Did you modify for a straight shank hook?
 
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