Tail spin swivel installation

Flatten one loop of roller or crane swivel slightly with a pair of pliers,careful not to close it to far because you need to attach it to jig afterwards. It makes it a little easier to tie in past the bend and adds a tad more length to the swivel.. Slide swivel onto jig and put in vise. Slide toward head out of the way.I start my thread about half way on shank and wrap to about 1/3 to 1/4 of the way down past the bend where I build a little thread base so swivel won't slide past when you position it. Return thread to bend. Position swivel slightly past bend. I secure the swivel by wrapping two wraps over then one under the flattened end of the swivel holding it in place until secure.I keep doing this until swivel doesn't move. You can apply super glue to thread around the flattened end. I don't use glue because MY FINGERS ALWAYS END UP STUCK TO SOMETHING,of course that's me. I use 70 ultra thread because a thread like a 140 or 210 builds up quickly. A good substitute would be a 6/0 or 8/0 UNI-Thread. Use care when wrapping the swivel if you use the smaller size thread that you don't nick the hook barb and cut the thread. I've done that a few times already. I havn't tried the bigger threads so it may work just fine. Here are a few pics.

Thanks JJ, I was wondering how you did that.

Nice JJ1! Great post.

Bout ready to attempt some tailspin ties, was wondering what the best blades are? Took a chance & ordered size 0 Indianas for #2 hook 1/8 & 1/4 oz heads. Would Colorados or other have been a better choice? Different size?

Target species will be mostly hypers & walleye in fresh water, & local HI shoreline small game.

Great idea, JJ1, looking forward to comparing with current fave JJ2's Boolie prop jigs. I just discovered last night that squeezing a bit of Super Glue into a small aluminum foil depression and applying with a toothpick is lots less messy than applying straight from the tube. Altho it sets in seconds in tight spaces(and on fingers!), pooled in the open it stays reasonably fluid for much longer, around 10 minutes work time in my climate. BTW "Super Glue" IMO is better than "Crazy Glue".

I really like the Indiana's,and for a #2 hook you made a good choice with the 0's,maybe a #1 would work better. For rivers,a #1 willow would also be a good choice.

OK, here's step 1 - assembling hardware onto jig. #8 drop shot swivels have a nice finger to tie onto the bottom of the hook shank, and the Romar brand is nicely smooth spinning. Some Super Glue into the wraps after the swivel is tied on creates a solid attachment.

First practice sili tie was cut too short, and looks like a #1 blade would indeed be a better size for these 1/4 and 3/8 size salty jigs.

View attachment 5

Those will work.I'd tie the legs in long and then trim it back to the split ring.The rubber legs flare out on these baits so you might leave them even longer than that.

The d-shot swivels should do the trick. The only time i have trouble with the tail material fouling the blade is when it ends up out touching the split ring... seems to really get it wrapping around the swivel. I have been leaving tails kind of long then trimming on the water once they are wet and the material is all laying flat.

I say bump up that blade size too. Will give it better profile AND let you slow down your retrieve.

# 8 swivels and 0 Silver Colorado blade on a #4 hook for the river?

Thx for this JJ. Very innovative and exactly what my son is asking for!